Hair-Speak Tutorial

Client and hair stylist must speak the same language. I don’t mean Korean, Italian, English, Russian, Punjabi, Pashto, Awadhi, Gan, Dutch, or anyone of the world’s many other languages. What I’m talking about here, are the terms we all use daily when we are engaging in hair talk.

When the client says “a little bit darker/lighter”, how many shades are we talking. Understanding this one is really important. I have one meaning of lighter/darker, and the client has another. This difference of what the hair stylist and the client mean and understand, will cause someone to be very unhappy with the results.  That someone is usually the client.

Another term is “Cut just a little”, are we talking split ends, or inches?  Cut more than the client wants or expects, and it’s “forever” for the hair to grow back. Your client will not be happy with you for the many months it takes for the hair to grow-out again.

The extra time spent talking to the client for a complete and clear understanding of what the client really wants and expects, will create a hair style (the look) the client was hoping for. The result of a happy client is a lasting relationship between hair stylist and client (spell that regular returning client).

When the client is happy, referrals will be coming my way. The person that is happy with their hair style wants their friend or family member to be happy, so they refer them to the same salon/hair stylist to have the same rewarding experience.

When you look good, you feel good. When a hair stylist provides the exact hair style the client was hoping for, then the client will be happy and very confident with others. Making my clients feel happy and proud of how they look, is a great reward to being a hair stylist.

I really appreciate it when a client brings me pictures from a magazine to show exactly what hair style they’re hoping to achieve. Sometimes these pictures come from magazines, but more often they come from the Internet. On-line is a great source for hair styles. Pictures are a great help to close the hair talk gap between client and hair stylist.  Pictures surpass words for being very clear about a hair style. Before seeing your hair stylist, get pictures so that you can be very very clear about what you want.

Over the years, I’ve learned that I need to listen very carefully and ask my client questions. There are some things that cannot be corrected, like cutting hair too short. In my early years as a hair stylist, I learned that making my clients happy was up to me. If a client wasn’t happy, it was my fault for not taking the time to understand what my client wanted. Today for my clients, I’m a very very good listener.

Guest contributor Lorie Gutierrez Ford is an experienced hair stylist with Chino One Stop Hair Salon in Chino, California. You can follow Lorie on Twitter at: StylistLorie4U

Got a question, war story or comment about this topic? Click on the "Leave Your Comments" link at the very bottom of this article. Some of my best ideas for future articles come from reading reader comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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Formaldehyde, OSHA and Hair Straightening Products – What’s up?

In September of this year the U.S. Department of Labor’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) issued its second hazard alert to hair salon owners and employees about possible formaldehyde exposure when working with some hair straightening and smoothing products.

Hairdressing salon owners who choose to use hair straightening and smoothing products that contain or release formaldehyde are now required by OSHA to perform air quality tests while using these products. If formaldehyde is found to be present at higher levels than OSHA’s limits during any 15-minute period, then the salon owner is required to jump through quite a few hoops in order to keep workers and clients safe. Salon owners must follow OSHA’s formaldehyde standard if they are to use, manufacture, import or distribute the products.

Formaldehyde is a cancer hazard at certain levels. It can also cause allergic reactions or irritation to the lungs, eyes and the skin.  Beauty salon owners and employees need to be properly trained when using hair straightening and smoothing products. The level of formaldehyde exposure in any given salon is determined by a number of factors such as salon size and ventilation, along with treatment applications, blow-dry and flat iron times. Suitable ventilation and observance to proper procedure will result in lower levels of gas being released into the air.

OSHA issues citations against hair salons, manufacturers and distributors

In September 2011, OSHA issued citations to two Florida manufacturers and distributors for failing to protect their own employees to possible formaldehyde exposure as well as the failure to communicate the hazards of formaldehyde to salon owners, hair stylists and the public consumers. They have also issued 23 citations with fines up to $17,500. to salon owners and beauty schools in Massachusetts, Connecticut,, Pennsylvania, Florida, Illinois, New York, New Jersey and Ohio, for failing to protect their workers from overexposure and potential exposure to formaldehyde.

OSHA is requiring that if salons are going to use these products, they must be aware to use protective measures such as air monitoring and training. Dr. David Michaels, Assistant Secretary of Labor for OSHA says, “What is very troubling to the agency is that some of these products clearly expose workers to formaldehyde even when the label states they are ‘formaldehyde free.’”

“The best way to control exposure to formaldehyde is to use products that do not contain formaldehyde. Salons should check the label or product information to make sure it does not list formaldehyde, formalin, methylene glycol or any of the other names for formaldehyde,” said Michaels. “If salon owners decide to use products that contain or release formaldehyde, then they must follow a number of protective practices — including air monitoring, worker training and, if levels are over OSHA limits, good ventilation or respirators.”

The industry fights back

Keratin Complex has announced plans to dispute OSHA’s allegations that their products do not comply with OSHA’s safety standards. Larry Solomon, president of Keratin Complex says, “We disagree with OSHA’s inflammatory and inaccurate report and we are asking for a full retraction.” Keratin Complex not only complies with all OSHA standards but we meet or exceed their safety standards and requirements.”

Now the folks behind Keratin Complex and other Professional Keratin Smoothing Council (PKSC) members are lobbying for OSHA to adopt newer, more accurate testing methods in addition to carrying out accurate air quality tests in salons. Their claim is that OSHA used an older technology method that chemically changes the composition of the product.

Barb Quinn on Google+  

For further discussion on hair straightening you might want to check out these other articles:

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10 things I’ve learned from being a cosmetology student   

by Andrea Lemelin

Six months into cosmetology school, aside from learning the fundamentals of being a hair stylist, I’ve been able to take away some life lessons which any aspiring beauty school student should know.

1. Be the guinea pig:  One of the obvious perks to being a cosmetology student is the free practice!  Testing techniques with classmates allows you to learn about different hair products and become more knowledgeable in discussions with your clients.  You’ll also be able to get those bright pink peak-a-boo highlights out of your system while you can get away with it. 
2. Observation is key:  Every hair stylist has their own techniques, likes various products or uses special tools.  Half of the tips I’ve picked up are from watching my fellow students.  When there’s some downtime, I walk around and see what others are doing.  Not everything is in the books, so looking around at your colleagues can spark some interest in something new you want to try.
3. Make mistakes and get dirty: The only way to learn is from your minor mess-ups.  I now know to stay far away from the scalp when using texturizing sheers.  School is the place to make some mistakes, and you will.  Just stay calm, grab an instructor and whatever you do, don’t say “uh-oh”. 
4. A little acetone goes a long way: It’s important to remember where you are and what you are doing.  You are selling the beauty industry.  Do you really want your chipped fingernail polish in the mirror for the client to stare at?  Take the time to look professional.  You may be working 2 jobs a day and running from here to there, but make sure you come to beauty school looking polished.
5. Skip the gym and hit the salon floor: Prepare yourself for a work out.  Beauty school consists of doing a haircut while another client’s hair color is processing or shampooing a client for a fellow student while they set up their station. Burning some extra calories by multi-tasking for hours on end is another perk of the salon environment.
6. Learn to love the perm rod: A perm may seem like an archaic styling technique now-a-days, but certainly not at a cosmetology school.  Perm wraps are a hurdle for every student to jump, but once you get it down, you’ll be a pro!  Don’t be afraid to use this more traditional salon service to create a modern hair style, such as a messy beach wave.
7. Black is the new black: I’m sure my cosmetology school is not alone with its strict dress code.  I feared how fast black from the waist down would get boring . . . but I grew to love it!  Use the simplicity of the dress code to your advantage.  Try some new accessories or some funky up-dos to make your look more exciting.  Keeping your wardrobe simple is a great way to allow a polished hair design or some fresh-faced make-up to take a stand.
8. ASK!:  As a cosmetology student, you are there to learn, you will never have all the answers.  When in doubt, grab an instructor.  It is their job to teach you.  Asking some technical questions and ending with a happy client is worth the extra time.
9. Build a bond:  There’s been no greater feeling than a client coming in for a second time.  Before I knew it, it turned into a third and forth time.  Taking my time and talking to my clients has allowed a level of trust and understanding to develop.  Pre-booking clients and getting referrals is never to be underestimated.  It guarantees more practice and begins a client base.  Tips from your regulars don’t hurt either!
10. You are only as good as you wanna be: Anyone can cut hair, but not everyone can be a high level hair stylist.  You have to love it.  When you love what you are doing, you want to learn more and become the best.  Set your goals high, and your passion with help you reach them!

Guest contributor Andrea Lemelin is a cosmetology student at Empire Beauty School in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. She hopes to take her education to a freelance level with an emphasis in wedding and personal hair styling. She certainly has a bright future, both as a hair stylist and a future as a regular contributor here at Hairstyle Blog.

Barb Quinn on Google+  

Got a question, war story or comment about this topic? Click on the "Leave Your Comments" link at the very bottom of this article. Some of my best ideas for future articles come from reading reader comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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