Straight-haired stunner, Charlize Theron
gets in to the curly mode.

Changing my hairstyle is easier than you think

It’s no secret that you always want what you don’t have: straight strands to replace your endlessly frizzy, curly hair; body and waves to give your flat, limp pieces an injection of life. But while your mother might’ve had to make do with the hair she was born with, you don’t have to! From long-term hair salon remedies to at-home solutions that require less of commitment, there’s lots you can do to take charge of your hairstyles. Here, Mo Smith, hairdresser and Salon Director of Glow salon in New York City, uncurls (and straightens out) the way you can create a whole new you.

IF YOUR HAIR IS STRAIGHT

There are lots of options for femmes who crave the wave. Options offer no-care curls for as short as one day or as long as a few months. Coil size is up to you!

To Get Tight Twists . . .

SALON FIX: A chemical body wave takes about an hour and a half to complete, and provides coils that keep for the long haul (up to three months). The risk is minimized with products like Rusk Anti-Curl, which can remove unwanted perms from hair.

The first thing you need to discuss with your hairdresser is the overall effect you are hoping for. Any cutting should be done before the permanent is begun. Next, the size of the curls is determined and the appropriate rods selected. Plastic or mesh rollers work best for permanents. Since the chemicals are harsh, hairdressers must protect ends with tissue before wrapping strands around rollers. “The Matrix Three Step Perm is great, because the middle step is a conditioning treatment which protects hair and makes a nice wave,” says Smith, The actual perm solution is a thio perm, which means it is heat activated. After ten to twenty minutes under the hair dryer, the hair’s bonds are broken down and accept the suggestion of the wave rods. When the curls look firm, hair is rinsed.

“take charge of your tresses”

Another alternative is the Natural pH Wave Perm. This process starts with a rinse, then the hair is towel-dried and the conditioning step is performed.  The neutralizer is the last chemical which seals the perm. and should never be kept on longer than five minutes (it is very potent!)

AT-HOME HOW-TO’S: There is a reason you never hear of the Ogilvy Home Perm anymore. With the mix of chemicals, You are asking for a nightmare to happen,” notes Smith. Opt instead for a more temporary solution if you’re not willing to invest the money in a salon perm or wave. Wash and condition hair and blow-dry. Spritz a thermal product like Framesi Pro Form to protect the hair, and smooth over a setting lotion to keep curls intact. Roll hair in sections from the bottom up and secure each roller with a butterfly clip. Allow fifteen to twenty minutes drying time. The resulting waves can stay in place for a couple of days.

To Get Romantic Ripples . . .

A “body wave” or larger, softer wave pattern provides a versatile texture to work with. The supple movement adds body and depth to lifeless locks.

SALON FIX: “I’ve been doing a lot of chemical body waves since it is trendy now for the first time in many years,” reports Mo Smith. Expect the same staying power as a perm, depending on your hair type. The process is exactly the same; the use of a larger roller is the only difference.

AT-HOME HOW-TO’S: If you want to create romantic ripples at home, there are two types of hot rollers to choose from. Rubber or velvet rollers produce comparable results, but the velvet models tend to hold up better over the long run. Size is another consideration, but with today’s sultry waves, bigger rollers are the best choice.

IF YOUR HAIR IS CURLY

To Get Soft Swirls . . .

SALON FIX: Chemical processes that promise to loosen curls tend to produce inconsistent results, with some straight sections, others slightly wavier, and still others retaining a tight coil pattern. Also, keep in mind that relaxing procedures do not ensure that you will not have to invest time in styling and drying, Another consideration is that the chemicals in hair relaxers are extremely damaging.

The relaxing procedure begins when a cream-based product is applied from root to end. Then, anti-curl is combed through and left on for varying times, depending upon how curly the hair is, and the result desired, usually for no more than seven minutes, Similar to a perm, the relaxer breaks down the bonds of the hair and opens it to the suggestion of a new pattern—in this case, a looser wave, Your hairdresser should always finish with a conditioning treatment, and should exercise special caution if your hair has been bleached.

AT-HOME HOW-TO’S: A metal round brush is the tool of choice when blow-drying curly strands. The center heats up and acts like a curling iron to keep the desired pattern, Even better and easier, wrap large sections of dry hair around hot rollers for a longer lasting, softer look. And if your hair is ultra-curly, use a smidgen of straightening balm or anti-frizz crème to help smooth the hair cuticle.

To Get Straight Strands . . .

SALON FIX: For a straighter look, the same relaxing process as described above is performed. The only difference; The solution is left on for the maximum amount of time (seven minutes). Again, be aware that you may dream of showering and leaving the house with stick-straight, shiny strands, but that’s not a realistic expectation. You’ll still need to spend a bit of time styling tresses.

AT-HOME HOW-TO’S: The right product can make all the difference, Use a heavy conditioner so strands are softer and easier to style. A straightening balm can work wonders. One to try; Modern Organic Products (MOP) D-curl, Apply to wet hair with fingers. Work with smaller sections when blow-drying to got the straightest effect, Start with the bottom sections. First, work fingers through the section, pulling it straight in a downward motion to dry hair a bit and cut down on damage, and then go over hair with the round brush. Top it off with a shine serum for extra glimmer. Remember to go easy on product to keep hair cleaner longer and cut down on the frequency of blowouts. Bonus: Flat irons are a great way to eliminate frizz and unwanted wave. After blow-drying, drag the iron fluidly from roof to end.

IF YOUR HAIR IS BABY-FINE

To Boost Its Volume . . .

Lifeless locks can be a drag, but a little body can go a long way. Here: a few cues to put your hair back on the pulse.

SALON FIX: A permanent is not the right alternative for infusing body into fine tresses, says Smith, because the elasticity of fine hair is so high, it will not take consistently or at all to the process. A better option is to color hair, which causes the hair shaft to swell. Despite misconceptions, hair color can be safe. Permanent or semi-permanent (lighter) color opens the hair shaft more than darker shades, and therefore provides the most voluminous effects. Cutting layers into locks also removes the weight that lengthy strands can create, achieving movement and texture.

AT-HOME HOW-TO’S: Try Framesi Definition Cream Gel to give hair a thicker appearance. Steer clear of heavy conditioners that weigh hair down, and opt instead for light detanglers. When heat-styling, choose a wide-barreled metal core brush and blow-dry. This method provides much more volume than rollers can.

Article courtesy of Harris Publications

Barb Quinn on Google+  

Got a question, war story or comment about this topic? Click on the "Leave Your Comments" link at the very bottom of this article. Some of my best ideas for future articles come from reading reader comments. I'd love to hear from you!

• Romantic Ideas

Get Shine, Body, Softness and Color Back Into Your Hair!

Is your hair looking lusterless? Is the color looking dull, especially throughout the top of the head? Does your hair seem to be lacking the body, shine and softness it once had? The culprit more than likely may be your water.

“try some quick and
easy solutions”

If you have hard water and especially if you live in a rural area, using well water, you are probably unaware of how much better your hair can look and feel! Some tell-tale signs of hard water are; a rust or green color around the drains of the bathtub and needing to use lots of soap to get a lather.

If you aren’t in the market for installing a water-softener in your home, you can try some quick and easy solutions that will bring more life and vibrancy to your hair and also prep the hair to receive color processes more effectively. My best recommendation is to purchase a shower head filter. I bought one a few months ago and it’s been the best and easiest fix for hard water that I’ve done for my hair. I could feel the results immediately and it was quick and easy to install, I love it. They are suppose to be good for about 6 months before needing a replacement filter. It was cheap and easy to install. I wrote an article about it at the time. I haven’t needed to put in the replacement filter yet. I’m sure my hair will let me know when it’s time to replace.

Using a clarifying shampoo is another great way to strip off built up product as well as some minerals from the hair. The effects are immediate. Your hair will feel softer and look fuller and shinier.

• How often should you use a clarifier? ~~ You could try once every two weeks to start and increase it if it feels like it’s still stripping the hair of residue. If you use lots of product, once a week might do well. If you use it too often it will dry the hair. Be sure to condition afterwards.

Another remedy is to use an apple cider vinegar and water mixture as your final rinse. You can fill a spray bottle with it, but this takes a long time to saturate the hair. Better idea might be to mix up a gallon of the concoction and use it in the sink by soaking your hair in it. This way you’ll have it ready for use when needed. Here is an article that explains the mixture and links to a site on how to make your own herbal vinegar rinses.

Before a color service it’s important to have your hair clean of product and minerals. If you think your hair could use more than what a clarifier can do for you, check out a product called “Quicken” by Malibu. Apply the crystals before the color service and they will remove the deposits hard water has left on the hair.

For further discussion on hard water hair issues you might want to check out these other articles:

• How to Solve Hard Water Hair Issues
• Hard Water Hair, Use Less Shampoo
• Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Treatment
• Hair Health Tips
• Hard Water Hair Damage?

Barb Quinn on Google+  

Forever young . . . Anti-aging hair care products are they for real?

When I first saw this article red flags went up all over the place . . . It does grabs ones attention though, especially if one is say, 40 something or more.

Carrie Watson, senior editor of American Salon magazine makes the case that with 24 million baby boomers now over the age of 50, we are ripe for the marketing of these new elixirs. It follows that there are now anti-aging hair care products popping up all over under the guise of “reversing” the aging of hair.

What are the signs of aging hair? Brittleness and loss of radiance, strength and elasticity says Marion Johnson, Alterna’s vice president of marketing. And she adds, hair may become difficult to style and loss of volume can also become an issue. Unfortunately, it’s true most of us see these changes in our hair as we age. But can hair care products reverse this process?

I have my concerns that the marketers are selling us hope, rather than a cure. It just doesn’t ring true in my mind. Here is what Ms. Watson reports about the new up and coming miracle cures; “Manufacturers are creating hair care lines designed to reverse, not just mask the toll aging takes on hair. You want to look for ingredients that restore elasticity and strength, refine texture and replenish moisture.” (Don’t we already have products that say they do this?) Some of the ingredients included are;

• Vitamins

• Omega-3 fatty acids

• Marine botanicals

• Green tea

• Apple

• Wine and citrus extracts

• Amino acids

• White tea

• Oat bran

• Peptides

• Yogurt

She goes on to say,”Interestingly, many of the ingredients found in anti-aging hair care products are the same as those found in anti-aging skin care.”

Paula Begoun, renowned author of, Don’t Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me, says most consumers are so enamored by the power of “natural” that there is no question in their mind whether this natural stuff is really good. She says, “Sadly, while some natural ingredients can have helpful properties for skin, in hair care products almost all natural ingredients have little to no impact or influence on the health, cleanliness, strength, or smoothness of hair.

In essence, you could take all of the natural-sounding ingredients out of a hair care product and you would still have an effective shampoo, conditioner, or styling product that would leave the hair clean, soft and manageable. Take out all the so-called chemical-sounding ingredients and all you would have is tea, (which plant extracts often are) and dirty, unconditioned and unmanageable hair.”

My take on the new pitch for anti-aging hair care products . . . Don’t buy because you believe it will “reverse” the aging process of your hair. I don’t disallow that any one of these products might not be good for your hair, it’s the pitch I don’t believe.

Ask your hairdresser what your hair needs. Is it in good shape or does it need more moisture, more conditioning, a clarifying shampoo, less chemical processing, less heat or a heat protectant?

The American Salon magazine article goes on to recommend washing the hair at least once a week with a clarifying shampoo, regular massaging of the scalp to increase circulation to the scalp and hair, exercise, a well-balanced diet, rest and stress maintenance. I think these steps are the best advice of the whole article. Here is the list American Salon magazine showcased for products that will “turn back time.” If you try them, come back and give us your take on the experience!

• Alterna’s – Anti-Aging Caviar Collection

• Nexxus Y Serum Younger Looking Hair

• Phyto’s Phytodensium Shampoo and Serum

• Pureology’s NanoWorks Shampoo and Conditioner

• P2 Age De Phy Shampoo and Conditioner

• Frederic Fekkai, The Ageless Collection

If you try them, come back and give us your take on the experience!

Barb Quinn on Google+  

Got a question, war story or comment about this topic? Click on the "Leave Your Comments" link at the very bottom of this article. Some of my best ideas for future articles come from reading reader comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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